Sunday, July 21, 2013

Simplicity 1882 - Pattern Review

Simplicity 1882 - Wearable muslin in poplin


The Facts 

S1882 Envelop Cover
Pattern: Simplicity 1882
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: Wearable muslin, 2$/m poplin in plum and black.
Notions: Invisible zipper 22 in, pipping, interfacing
Stitches: construction : Strait stitch #1 and foot regular and transparent quilting 1/4 and 1/8. Finishing : stretch overcasting #16 and overcasting foot.
Time to complete: about 13h to cut/baste/fit. Then 16h to resew and add the collar and sleeves - I am a snailstress!
First worn: July 21th 2013
Wear again? Oh Yeah! I love it! 

Total Cost: 12$


Pattern Review

S1882 Line Drawings
Pattern Description: Misses’ Amazing Fit dress with separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, D cup sizes and slim, average and curvy fit. Soft V neck with or without collar. Sleeveless or cap sleeves or 3/4 sleeves. with Very flattering midriff and pockets! Optional cute bow at the collar.

Pattern Sizing: Making Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Not bad, but they do not mention how to finish the interior seams. Moreover, I needed to read the collar instruction several times to figure it out. Finally, I somehow messed up the pocket flaps by topstitching on top of the flaps (visible stitches) instead of understitching the seam allowances to the dress under the flaps... 

S1882 - Front
I also had trouble with the invisible zipper, but it is not because of the instructions! I had better result with the regular zip foot than my plastic invisible zip foot. I will need more practice to achieve an really invisible one next time. 
S1882 - Back
I do not know how to make the collar sit flat on my back... I might try to tack it in place? I think the neck might be too high for my body on the back, but this would require some pattern alterations that I fear for now.
S1882 - Side
Next time, I will not sew this dress with the seams on the outside first to fit it. Since I am pretty symmetrical, I can sew it normally and put it on inside-out to pin fit it. This should save me a good amount of time!

S1882 - Inside Finishes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I adore the line drawing, the midriff piece is very flattering on my body type (Full bust, subtle waist indent). I love pockets! Those do not add bulk to my silhouette. I like the retro look of the collar and the ability to add piping. 

Fabric Used:
Used a plum colored poplin and black poplin accent @2$/m from Fabricville. No lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Here are my measurements to help give an idea of my size choice and alterations :

  • High Bust : 38 in
  • Bust : 40 in
  • Waist : 33 in
  • Hip : 40 in
  • 5ft 2in and 156 lbs

I made Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup. Here are my alterations in chronological order :
  • Shorten by 6 in at the hem.
  • Skirt : I tapered from size 18 at waist to a size 16 from top of pocket flaps to the hem. In other words, I used the front and back skirt pattern pieces from the top to the notch in size 18, then from the notch to the hem in a size 16.
  • Bodice : Take in 1 1/8 inch at the top of the side seam under the arm  to nothing at the midriff seam. 
  • Whole side seam :  I took about 3/4 inch in the middle of the midriff to 1/2 inch at the top and bottom of the midriff. Then from the 1/2 inch on the seams to nothing both on the bodice and skirt...
  • I made the skirt side seams from the midriff to the pockets straight instead of curved.
  • For the next one, try to add about 1/4 inch to the shoulder seams?!?

So I will need to look if my pattern alterations wouldn't be more straight forward by using the size 16 skirt and removing to the bodice side seam from 1 1/8 inch at the top to 1/2 inch, then removing 3/4 inch in the middle of the midriff  and blending to the bodice and skirt pieces... If that make sense!! Or I need to make sure I just didn't forgot to sew the side seams with the pattern 1 inch SA?!? I don't remember since I started the dress 13 months before finishing it! Oups!

Would you sew it again? Yes, I already have bought the fabric (floral stretch cotton sateen) as this one was a wearable muslin made of inexpensive poplin. I wore it to date with my husband and, while I felt fabulous, the poplin wrinkles easily and it would benefit from a fabric with more drape and a little more body I guess...

Conclusion: I needed the help of the internet to complement the pattern instruction. In particular, to learn and choose my finishing methods (seams and hem) and to master some techniques new to me : set-in sleeves, how to pins the curved princess seams and invisible zipper...


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