Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Peplum Camisole

Rewarding fast projects - I traced around my favorite camisole (tank top or vest) and added 3/8 inch seam allowances. I love this better because it doesn't require to cut closer to the edge to finish the seams with my overcast stitch and it is exactly the width of my favorite sewing machine foot.

I tried it on, adjust a little the armhole, did a sway back adjustment and took note of the waist to create the peplum version... I just used my waist circumference and the formula : 2 x PI x RADIUS = CIRCUMF.  I decided to do a half circle skirt, so I made my formula with : CIRCUMF = 2 x WAIST. Or if you prefer : RADIUS = WAIST divided by 3.14. And I drew only 45 degree of it, to be cut on fold, twice. A picture is worth a thousand words they say :

Peplum Pattern Piece, cut 2 on fold.

1) I made it first exactly as my favorite camisole, with remnant of a 2$/m knit velvet I bought for an Halloween costume years ago. I forgot all about nap and ended up with it being visibly different for the front and back, Oups! I needed a sway back adjustment : an horizontal dart of 5/8 inch to remove the back wrinkles.

1) Muslin

2) Then I tried my peplum version with the same velvet fabric and liked it enough to sew arm and neck bands on it and wear it. The 10 inch peplum skirt is a little long, but I could hem it shorter eventually...

2) Velvet Peplum

2) Velvet Peplum

3) Finally, I tried to use my leopard kimono tee remnant to see if it would work in a cotton 1-way stretch knit and made the skirt only 8 inch long. The arm and neck band are made of the same velvet strips I already cut for the previous version...
3) Leopard Peplum
3) Leopard Peplum

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Space Saver Wallets Duo

My First Sewn Wallets


Strictly Essential Wallet

  • Simple, about 8 cards, zip closure, compact. 
  • Need to be able to slip this one in a pocket when going to the park...
  • I used this tutorial : Easy Zipper Pouch, by Dog Under the Carpet
  • I wrote my name on it, just because my machine can! 
  • One side is not as pretty, but I will not redo it for now since those wallets are in probation. I will wait to see if the fabrics is sturdy enough to survive my careless lifestyle...

Small Essentials and Too Many Cards Slim

Rebate/Membership Cards Wallet

  • For more about a dozen of cards, slim.
  • I used the tutorial : Lots of Cards Tall Wallet, by Nancy Couture
  • Next time, I will enlarge it by 1/4 to 1/2 to be able to apply a trim all around.
  • I would prefer if the cards overlapped more, being 1/2 inch apart instead of 1 inch.
  • I should add a zipper closure or elastic band parallel to the tall opening edge.
  • Make finding a card a breeze since you see them all!
  • For a more compact solution, I could have used this tutorial : 30 Cards Compact Zippered Wallet, by Craft Passion.

Grey Dress Embroidery

My little guy photo bomb!

Love Birds Embroidery

This is my second embroidery project. I drew on paper the birds similar to what I saw on my computer screen from Urban Threads, but the exact size and shape I wanted.

Embroidery Overview

Then I cut the paper and placed the birds as I liked on my dress and drew around it with a washable pen. I drew straight lines with chalk and a ruler for the wires and machine baste it before embroidering it by hand.
Pink Bird in Split Stitches

I embroidered it while chatting with friends during a kids birthday party, while traveling in a car (not driving, don't worry!) and waiting for an emergency (no appointment) doctor visit. We wait for a VERY long time in Québec without an appointment! It must have taken me about 3 hours for the wires and less than 2 hours for the birds.

French Knots and Blue Stem Stitch

I like the embellishments on an otherwise very plain dress and I wore it all the time during this summer heat wave! I really need more summer dresses... This one is very casual and a little bit short.

Love Birds on Wires

Embroidery Resources

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Simplicity 1882 - Pattern Review

Simplicity 1882 - Wearable muslin in poplin


The Facts 

S1882 Envelop Cover
Pattern: Simplicity 1882
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: Wearable muslin, 2$/m poplin in plum and black.
Notions: Invisible zipper 22 in, pipping, interfacing
Stitches: construction : Strait stitch #1 and foot regular and transparent quilting 1/4 and 1/8. Finishing : stretch overcasting #16 and overcasting foot.
Time to complete: about 13h to cut/baste/fit. Then 16h to resew and add the collar and sleeves - I am a snailstress!
First worn: July 21th 2013
Wear again? Oh Yeah! I love it! 

Total Cost: 12$


Pattern Review

S1882 Line Drawings
Pattern Description: Misses’ Amazing Fit dress with separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, D cup sizes and slim, average and curvy fit. Soft V neck with or without collar. Sleeveless or cap sleeves or 3/4 sleeves. with Very flattering midriff and pockets! Optional cute bow at the collar.

Pattern Sizing: Making Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Not bad, but they do not mention how to finish the interior seams. Moreover, I needed to read the collar instruction several times to figure it out. Finally, I somehow messed up the pocket flaps by topstitching on top of the flaps (visible stitches) instead of understitching the seam allowances to the dress under the flaps... 

S1882 - Front
I also had trouble with the invisible zipper, but it is not because of the instructions! I had better result with the regular zip foot than my plastic invisible zip foot. I will need more practice to achieve an really invisible one next time. 
S1882 - Back
I do not know how to make the collar sit flat on my back... I might try to tack it in place? I think the neck might be too high for my body on the back, but this would require some pattern alterations that I fear for now.
S1882 - Side
Next time, I will not sew this dress with the seams on the outside first to fit it. Since I am pretty symmetrical, I can sew it normally and put it on inside-out to pin fit it. This should save me a good amount of time!

S1882 - Inside Finishes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I adore the line drawing, the midriff piece is very flattering on my body type (Full bust, subtle waist indent). I love pockets! Those do not add bulk to my silhouette. I like the retro look of the collar and the ability to add piping. 

Fabric Used:
Used a plum colored poplin and black poplin accent @2$/m from Fabricville. No lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Here are my measurements to help give an idea of my size choice and alterations :

  • High Bust : 38 in
  • Bust : 40 in
  • Waist : 33 in
  • Hip : 40 in
  • 5ft 2in and 156 lbs

I made Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup. Here are my alterations in chronological order :
  • Shorten by 6 in at the hem.
  • Skirt : I tapered from size 18 at waist to a size 16 from top of pocket flaps to the hem. In other words, I used the front and back skirt pattern pieces from the top to the notch in size 18, then from the notch to the hem in a size 16.
  • Bodice : Take in 1 1/8 inch at the top of the side seam under the arm  to nothing at the midriff seam. 
  • Whole side seam :  I took about 3/4 inch in the middle of the midriff to 1/2 inch at the top and bottom of the midriff. Then from the 1/2 inch on the seams to nothing both on the bodice and skirt...
  • I made the skirt side seams from the midriff to the pockets straight instead of curved.
  • For the next one, try to add about 1/4 inch to the shoulder seams?!?

So I will need to look if my pattern alterations wouldn't be more straight forward by using the size 16 skirt and removing to the bodice side seam from 1 1/8 inch at the top to 1/2 inch, then removing 3/4 inch in the middle of the midriff  and blending to the bodice and skirt pieces... If that make sense!! Or I need to make sure I just didn't forgot to sew the side seams with the pattern 1 inch SA?!? I don't remember since I started the dress 13 months before finishing it! Oups!

Would you sew it again? Yes, I already have bought the fabric (floral stretch cotton sateen) as this one was a wearable muslin made of inexpensive poplin. I wore it to date with my husband and, while I felt fabulous, the poplin wrinkles easily and it would benefit from a fabric with more drape and a little more body I guess...

Conclusion: I needed the help of the internet to complement the pattern instruction. In particular, to learn and choose my finishing methods (seams and hem) and to master some techniques new to me : set-in sleeves, how to pins the curved princess seams and invisible zipper...


 Related Links

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Simplicity 1882 - Muslin part.5 FINISHED!

My dress is finished!

It is not perfect, but I am thrilled with the result! The pattern review will come shortly... Thanks to all the help I got from my sewing friends on the Facebook Sewing Group!
Simplicity 1882 - Muslin Finished!

Back of S1882 - Muslin Finished!

I worked on this muslin part.5 from June 26 to July 20th 2013 :

  • Fixing most of the fit issues by tapering up to 3/4 inch at the middle of the midriff piece on the side seams : DONE!
  • Finish seams around zipper :  DONE!
  • Resew the visible invisible zipper to hide it better (need to press it more, use regular zipper foot instead of cheap plastic one) :  DONE!
  • Steps 27 to 30 - Collar : DONE!
  • Steps 31 to 34 - Neck Facing : DONE!
  • Steps 41 to 44 - Sleeves B : DONE!
  • Steps 48 - Hem : DONE!
Time for part.5 : more than 6 hours...

Next to do :

  • Write Simplicity 1882 pattern review : TO DO 
  • Alter pattern pieces for next version : TO DO
  • Then, sew another one in my blue floral cotton stretch sateen! (summer dress style : no sleeve, no collar, no pocket flaps) Hopefully, the next one will be faster to sew!
Fabric for my next S1882!