Sunday, May 26, 2013
Yoke Kristen Kimono Tee
My 3rd time with the Kristen Kimono Tee pattern : I used the burnout fabric for the yoke, a colorful leopard print 100% cotton for the body and some fold over elastics.
I was lazy when I modified the pattern, not translating any difference from the original pattern for the Front and Back. I base it all on the back piece because I wanted the neck to be high, so not to interfere with the yoke... Hence, I used only 2 pattern pieces : one for the yoke and one for the body. It worked out OK I think, a little snugger, but it might just be my fabric too?
I tired fold over elastic (FOE) with a picot edge for the neck and sleeves hems because I was not happy with the unfinished edge of my last burnout version... I just turned once and stitch for the bottom hem, fusing Heat N Bond Lite 10mm between the folds.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Burnout Kristen Kimono Tee
Kristen Kimono Tee v2 | on camisole | solo |
Tips and tricks
The second time I made this top, I used a very light weight Poly/Rayon burnout knit. I tried all short of stitches, tensions, width, length... But what worked best was to use tissues paper between my fabric and the feed dogs ; So much easier! Else, my fabric got sunk below the sewing machine plate and removing it either distorted or punctured it. It was also harder to cut, but I manage with my pattern weights and rotary cutter again!Light weight burnout Poly/Rayon Knit |
Using tissue paper between the feed dogs and the fabric |
with stay tape at the shoulder seams |
Sew with the stem stitch |
Ripping the tissue paper is easy afterward. |
Then finish the edge like you prefer |
Resulting seam! |
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Kristen Kimono Tee - Review
Free pattern - Kristen Kimono Tee |
The Facts
The simple kimono sleeves |
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: used about 0.75m of lightweight Poly45/Rayon50/Spandex5 blend @ 10$/m : it has white thin stripes all over "on top" of a multicolored splashes pattern.
Notions:
- Ball point needle #70/09,
- Stay tape for shoulders seams,
- Fusible webbing for hemming.
Stitches:
- Seams & top-stitching: Stem Stitch #7, Satin Foot B
- Finishing: Overcast #15, Overcast Foot G
Time to complete: 4h, from printing to wearing!
First worn: Right when I finished it, May 2013.
Wear again? YES! I already did!
Total Cost: about 8$CAD.
The Pattern Review
Pattern Description: Free simple kimono sleeves tee-shirt pattern, print at home.Pattern Sizing: Few sizes XS, S, M L , XL. I am 5'2" 40-33-40 and cut a L.
Straight face? I can't play poker! |
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I used fusible webbing on the hems and stay tape on the shoulder seams (like the Blank Canvas Tee recommended).
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had both patterns (Kristen Kimono Tee and Blank Canvas Tee) printed and choose the Kimono Tee because it has fewer pages... It was easy and fast to sew. I think the stay tape in the shoulder could be added to the instructions, but I'm new to sewing knits, so maybe it would have been OK without!?
Fabric Used: used about 0.75m of lightweight Poly55/Rayon40/Spandex5 blend. I choose it for the royal blue since it fits my kinda skinny jeans.
I chose the fabric to go with my jeans... |
Would you sew it again? YES!! This was a test garment : I'm now hooked on sewing fast Cake projects! I'm thinking a burnout one like Scruffy Badger, one with a yoke and one with a keyhole neckline...
Related links :
- Maria Denmark - Kimono Tee : blog and download
- Maria Denmark - Kimono Tee Update : blog update
- Craftsy - Kimono Tee Download : all Maria patterns
- Adding a yoke, by Confession of a sewing novice.
- My inspiration : Scruffy Badger pretty burnout version!
- My Pattern Review : on patternreview.com
- Version 2 - White burnout knit!
Tiramisu Knit Dress - Review
Tiramisu dress, with pockets! |
Tiramisu dress, flattering midriff |
Belted Tira - I swear my lips are not neon! |
Belted Tira - real color is deeper... |
The Facts
Pattern: SewingCake 0144 - Tiramisu Knit Dress
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: Used 1.6 yards (size 35D) of Raspberry Ponte di Roma, 60% Poly, 34% Rayon and lycra, medium weight. I machine wash and dry it, can see a little piling but it didn't change the fit.
Notions:
- Ball point needle #70/09,
- Stay tape for shoulders seams,
- Fusible webbing for hemming.
Stitches:
- Basting : #1 Strait stich with length 5.0, Satin foot B
- Construction : #7 Stem stitch, Satin foot B
- Top-sticthing : #6 Strait Stretch stich, Blind Hem foot D at 1/8 in.
- Finishing : #16 Overcast Stretch, Overcasting foot C, cut SA at 1/4 in.
- Hemming : #7 Stem stitch, Blind Hem foot D
Time to complete: maybe 9-10 hours (with tracing, cutting, sewing, learning curve of a new sewing machine and lots of sewing knits 101) Maybe 5h for the next one?
First worn: March 2013.
Wear again? YES! I already did!
Total Cost: about 25$ for 1.6m of fabric, stay tape, webbing and thread.
The Sewalong Review
Look ma, no gap! (before hemming) |
The format (30 min a day) was perfect for my busy mommy lifestyle of night sewing bursts! Of course, it never took me only 30 min per day ; I'm a perfectionist over planner! But I learned a lot in the process ; it was my first time sewing knits. I am hooked now!
Steph C was very generous of her time and comments. She is good to help, guide beginner sewers and is funny too! The flicker group was awesome ; so much inspiration, help, kind comments! It was like having girlfriends come over everyday to chat and sew the same project! My first sewalong, but definitely not my last! :D
Link to Etsy shop |
The Pattern Review
Pattern Description: Tiramisu: a knit dress with a surplice front, underbust gathers and cut-on sleeves, midriff section and half-circle skirt with in-seam pockets. The pattern includes optional stripes placement guide, cup sizing A-D and bust alteration line.Pattern Sizing: Ingenious way to choose you size ; by measurements (no arbitrary numbers here!), cup size and joining the dots for the midriff. I used :
- Bodice=35D.
- Midriff=35 at top to 32.5 at waist.
- Skirt=32.5 with 25 hem.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instruction were easy but I loved having the sewalong group for reassurance and variation of techniques by StephC...
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the visual of the pattern instructions ; so clear and simple. I still wish pattern instructions in general would come on Letter sized paper (I have a small desk to sew!), but those were the best I used so far (I had done only patterns from the big 4 before...)
Fabric Used: 1.6 yards of Solid, Raspberry Ponte di Roma, 60% Poly, 34% Rayon and lycra, medium weight.
twirling factor (before hemming) |
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I am 5'2" and 40-33-40.
- I cut the Bodice size 35D, but cut the Front underbust line at size 35A.
- Midriff : I cut the size 35 at top to 32.5 at waist.
- Midriff : I also lengthen by 3/4 inch : but will not do it next time.
- Skirt : I cut the size 32.5 with the size 25 hem. I still removed about 3 inch when hemming.
- I remove 3/4 inch on the mid riff back (piece #2) at the under bust tapered to nothing at the waist. (mismatched pattern pieces, has been resolved in the second release of the pattern.)
Related :
- Cake Pattern : http://sewingcake.com/
- Etsy Cake Patterns : http://www.etsy.com/shop/SewingCake
- Tiramisu Sewalong - Flicker Group : http://www.flickr.com/groups/2143657@N21/pool/
- Tiramisu Sewalong - Tracing : My blog post 1
- Tiramisu Sewalong - Cutting : My blog post 2
- Tiramisu Sewalong - Prepping : My blog post 3
- PatternReview.com : My review of the Tiramisu pattern.
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