Sunday, May 26, 2013

Yoke Kristen Kimono Tee


My 3rd time with the Kristen Kimono Tee pattern : I used the burnout fabric for the yoke, a colorful leopard print 100% cotton for the body and some fold over elastics.

I was lazy when I modified the pattern, not translating any difference from the original pattern for the Front and Back. I base it all on the back piece because I wanted the neck to be high, so not to interfere with the yoke... Hence, I used only 2 pattern pieces : one for the yoke and one for the body. It worked out OK I think, a little snugger, but it might just be my fabric too?

I tired fold over elastic (FOE) with a picot edge for the neck and sleeves hems because I was not happy with the unfinished edge of my last burnout version... I just turned once and stitch for the bottom hem, fusing Heat N Bond Lite 10mm between the folds.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Burnout Kristen Kimono Tee

Kristen Kimono Tee v2 on camisole solo

Tips and tricks

The second time I made this top, I used a very light weight Poly/Rayon burnout knit. I tried all short of stitches, tensions, width, length... But what worked best was to use tissues paper between my fabric and the feed dogs ; So much easier! Else, my fabric got sunk below the sewing machine plate and removing it either distorted or punctured it. It was also harder to cut, but I manage with my pattern weights and rotary cutter again!

Light weight burnout Poly/Rayon Knit
Using tissue paper between the feed dogs and the fabric
with stay tape at the shoulder seams
Sew with the stem stitch


Ripping the tissue paper is easy afterward.
Then finish the edge like you prefer
Resulting seam!

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Kristen Kimono Tee - Review

Free pattern - Kristen Kimono Tee

The Facts

The simple kimono sleeves
Pattern: Maria Denmark - Kristen Kimono Tee (FREE!)
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: used about 0.75m of lightweight Poly45/Rayon50/Spandex5 blend @ 10$/m : it has white thin stripes all over "on top" of a multicolored splashes pattern.
Notions:
- Ball point needle #70/09,
- Stay tape for shoulders seams,
- Fusible webbing for hemming.
Stitches:
- Seams & top-stitching: Stem Stitch #7, Satin Foot B
- Finishing: Overcast #15, Overcast Foot G
Time to complete: 4h, from printing to wearing!
First worn: Right when I finished it, May 2013.
Wear again? YES! I already did! 

Total Cost: about 8$CAD.

The Pattern Review

Pattern Description: Free simple kimono sleeves tee-shirt pattern, print at home.
 

Pattern Sizing: Few sizes XS, S, M L , XL. I am 5'2" 40-33-40 and cut a L.
 

Straight face? I can't play poker!
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?   Yes. I used fusible webbing on the hems and stay tape on the shoulder seams (like the Blank Canvas Tee recommended).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I had both patterns (Kristen Kimono Tee and Blank Canvas Tee) printed and choose the Kimono Tee because it has fewer pages... It was easy and fast to sew. I think the stay tape in the shoulder could be added to the instructions, but I'm new to sewing knits, so maybe it would have been OK without!?

Fabric Used:
used about 0.75m of lightweight Poly55/Rayon40/Spandex5 blend. I choose it for the royal blue since it fits my kinda skinny jeans.

I chose the fabric to go with my jeans...
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:   I just turned and stitch with the stretch zigzag (light-bolt icon) on hem, sleeves and neckline. I would do the neckline with the ribbing or FOE next time to avoid the neckline to wave a little. I still wear mine proudly! :D

Would you sew it again? YES!! This was a test garment : I'm now hooked on sewing fast Cake projects! I'm thinking a burnout one like Scruffy Badger, one with a yoke and one with a keyhole neckline...

Related links :

Tiramisu Knit Dress - Review

Tiramisu dress, with pockets!

Tiramisu dress, flattering midriff
 
Belted Tira - I swear my lips are not neon!


Belted Tira - real color is deeper...

The Facts 


Pattern: SewingCake 0144 - Tiramisu Knit Dress
Year: c. 2012
Fabric: Used 1.6 yards (size 35D) of Raspberry Ponte di Roma, 60% Poly, 34% Rayon and lycra, medium weight. I machine wash and dry it, can see a little piling but it didn't change the fit.
Notions:
- Ball point needle #70/09,
- Stay tape for shoulders seams,
- Fusible webbing for hemming.
Stitches:
- Basting : #1 Strait stich with length 5.0, Satin foot B
- Construction : #7 Stem stitch, Satin foot B
- Top-sticthing : #6 Strait Stretch stich, Blind Hem foot D at 1/8 in.
- Finishing : #16 Overcast Stretch, Overcasting foot C, cut SA at 1/4 in.
- Hemming : #7 Stem stitch, Blind Hem foot D
Time to complete: maybe 9-10 hours (with tracing, cutting, sewing, learning curve of a new sewing machine and lots of sewing knits 101) Maybe 5h for the next one?
First worn: March 2013.
Wear again? YES! I already did! 

Total Cost: about 25$ for 1.6m of fabric, stay tape, webbing and thread.


The Sewalong Review

Look ma, no gap! (before hemming)
My first sewalong : I loved it! It was from January 8 to 18th 2013. I did not finish in time due to a broken sewing machine foot and some procrastination during the hemming stage...

The format (30 min a day) was perfect for my busy mommy lifestyle of night sewing bursts! Of course, it never took me only 30 min per day ; I'm a perfectionist over planner! But I learned a lot in the process ; it was my first time sewing knits. I am hooked now!

Steph C was very generous of her time and comments. She is good to help, guide beginner sewers and is funny too! The flicker group was awesome ; so much inspiration, help, kind comments! It was like having girlfriends come over everyday to chat and sew the same project! My first sewalong, but definitely not my last! :D



Link to Etsy shop

The Pattern Review

Pattern Description: Tiramisu: a knit dress with a surplice front, underbust gathers and cut-on sleeves, midriff section and half-circle skirt with in-seam pockets. The pattern includes optional stripes placement guide, cup sizing A-D and bust alteration line.
 

Pattern Sizing: Ingenious way to choose you size ; by measurements (no arbitrary numbers here!), cup size and joining the dots for the midriff. I used :
  • Bodice=35D. 
  • Midriff=35 at top to 32.5 at waist. 
  • Skirt=32.5 with 25 hem.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!


Were the instructions easy to follow? The instruction were easy but I loved having the sewalong group for reassurance and variation of techniques by StephC...

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the visual of the pattern instructions ; so clear and simple. I still wish pattern instructions in general would come on Letter sized paper (I have a small desk to sew!), but those were the best I used so far (I had done only patterns from the big 4 before...)

Fabric Used: 1.6 yards of Solid, Raspberry Ponte di Roma, 60% Poly, 34% Rayon and lycra, medium weight.
twirling factor (before hemming)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 


  • I am 5'2" and 40-33-40.
  • I cut the Bodice size 35D, but cut the Front underbust line at size 35A.
  • Midriff : I cut the size 35 at top to 32.5 at waist.
  • Midriff : I also lengthen by 3/4 inch : but will not do it next time.
  • Skirt : I cut the size 32.5 with the size 25 hem. I still removed about 3 inch when hemming.
  • I remove 3/4 inch on the mid riff back (piece #2) at the under bust tapered to nothing at the waist. (mismatched pattern pieces, has been resolved in the second release of the pattern.)


Would you sew it again? YES!! I will do a top with the remnant of fabric (bought 3m to be able to recut pieces if fitting dictates to!) And I would love a 3/4 sleeve version and some for the summer too! I'm super proud of my craftsmanship on this project ; my best to date! I love the numerous quality stitch of my machine...

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