Simplicity 1882 - Muslin part.4

I will finished this muslin in June. My body is a little more tone and less heavy since I started sewing the dress a year ago...
 

My measurements (start / now) :

• High Bust : 38,5 / 38 in
• Bust : 41 / 40 in
• Waist : 34,5 / 33,5 in
• Hip : 40 / 40 in
• 5ft 2in and 160 lbs / 157 lbs

Pattern sizes used :

• Making Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup.
• No lining.
• Used a plum colored popeline and black popeline accent @2$/m from Fabricville.

Pattern alterations :

• Shorten by 6 in at the hem.
• Skirt : I tapered from size 18 at waist to a size 16 from top of pocket flaps to the hem. In other words : I used the front and back skirt pattern pieces from the top to the notch in size 18, then from the notch to the hem in a size 16.
• Bodice : Take in 1 1/8 inch at the top of the side seam under the arm  to nothing at the midriff seam.

Here is my progress as of June 26th 2013 :

• Attach skirt to midriff : DONE!
• Alter bodice : DONE!
• Sew bodice : DONE!
• Attach bodice to midriff : DONE!

• Finish midriff seams : DONE!
• Steps 24 to 26 - Zip : DONE!
• Steps 27 to 30 - Collar : TO DO
• Choose and sew sleeves A, B or facing C : TO DO
• Steps 48 - Hem : TO DO
• Alter pattern pieces for next version : TO DO  

Time for part.4 : 3h30

I think there is issues, but the fit is already better than RTW on me, mostly due to the D cup! I will sleep on it and reassess the fit tomorrow... Here are the problems noted :

1. Diagonal lines on top of my breast
2. Horizontal line around the top pipping of the midriff... Why?
3. Apex could be a little lower, either the shoulder seam should be let out about 1/4 in OR the apex moved OR princess seams reshaped (how?) ?
4. I sometimes wonder if the bottom of the midrif was designed to sit at the waist or not? I think not since there  is shaping in the midriff to get the waist indentation there, no?
5. My invisible zipper in visible... I hand basted the second side, but not the first. Maybe I should use the steam a seam thingny to baste both side before sewing?
6. The side seam is a little bit too forward. 
7. It feels like I should pinch the midriff piece about 1/2 in on each side (2 inches total) - would that fix some issues?

S1882 - Front view

Not so invisible zipper

Side view - side seam too forward, why?

Maybe I need to take it in more?