Friday, June 21, 2013

Simplicity 1882 - Muslin part.4

I will finished this muslin in June. My body is a little more tone and less heavy since I started sewing the dress a year ago...

My measurements (start / now) :

  • High Bust : 38,5 / 38 in
  • Bust : 41 / 40 in
  • Waist : 34,5 / 33,5 in
  • Hip : 40 / 40 in
  • 5ft 2in and 160 lbs / 157 lbs

Pattern sizes used :

  • Making Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup.
  • No lining.
  • Used a plum colored popeline and black popeline accent @2$/m from Fabricville.

Pattern alterations :

  • Shorten by 6 in at the hem.
  • Skirt : I tapered from size 18 at waist to a size 16 from top of pocket flaps to the hem. In other words : I used the front and back skirt pattern pieces from the top to the notch in size 18, then from the notch to the hem in a size 16.
  • Bodice : Take in 1 1/8 inch at the top of the side seam under the arm  to nothing at the midriff seam.

Here is my progress as of June 26th 2013 :

  • Attach skirt to midriff : DONE!
  • Alter bodice : DONE!
  • Sew bodice : DONE!
  • Attach bodice to midriff : DONE!
  • Finish midriff seams : DONE!
  • Steps 24 to 26 - Zip : DONE!
  • Steps 27 to 30 - Collar : TO DO
  • Choose and sew sleeves A, B or facing C : TO DO
  • Steps 48 - Hem : TO DO
  • Alter pattern pieces for next version : TO DO  
Time for part.4 : 3h30

I think there is issues, but the fit is already better than RTW on me, mostly due to the D cup! I will sleep on it and reassess the fit tomorrow... Here are the problems noted :
  1. Diagonal lines on top of my breast
  2. Horizontal line around the top pipping of the midriff... Why?
  3. Apex could be a little lower, either the shoulder seam should be let out about 1/4 in OR the apex moved OR princess seams reshaped (how?) ?
  4. I sometimes wonder if the bottom of the midrif was designed to sit at the waist or not? I think not since there  is shaping in the midriff to get the waist indentation there, no?
  5. My invisible zipper in visible... I hand basted the second side, but not the first. Maybe I should use the steam a seam thingny to baste both side before sewing?
  6. The side seam is a little bit too forward. 
  7. It feels like I should pinch the midriff piece about 1/2 in on each side (2 inches total) - would that fix some issues?
S1882 - Front view
Not so invisible zipper
Side view - side seam too forward, why?

Maybe I need to take it in more?

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