Simplicity 1882 - Muslin part.1

Cut Fabric

My NYC glass head pins!

Measures in inches

High Bust : 38,5
Bust : 41
Waist : 34,5
 Hip : 40
160 lbs, 5 ft 2 in.

Making Simplicity 1882, view B, size 18, D cup.
Used a nice plum colored popeline and black popeline accent @2$/m from Fabricville.

What I did:

I decided not to cut the pattern tissues. So I trace with a teethed wheel and wax free carbon paper on my fabric, unpinned the pattern tissues and cut with my rotary cutter every pieces. I used my carbon paper or tracing pen on the fabric to report the notches and dots on wrong side.

Next time, I should:

•  Trace the pattern tissues onto paper at the right size with the teethed wheel, skipping the carbon paper and the use to remove the tissues before cutting. Then use those paper pattern pieces, directly pinned to the fabric or weighted down with pattern weights, to cut around it with my rotary cutter.
• Cut the notches OUTSIDE instead of tracing them on the fabric inside the pattern pieces.
• Continue using pen to trace dots and inside marking.

It took me about 1 week, tracing and cutting a few hours for a few nights, while procrastinating a lot and surfing the web... (maybe 6 hours)
TIME : 6 h

Basting

Basted seams outside, on RIGHT side.

What I did :

Research princess seams sewing technique :

• Princess seams sewing tips
• PDF on Princess seams types and tips
• Pressure foot to sew curves without pins and video

Next time, I should :

• Step 9 - not sure I should have topstitched on top of the pocket flaps or underneath it??
• Take better care to notch the flap curves because they were visible on the right side when ironed. So I sew the flap interfacing side up on the dress - but they are sensitive (wrinkles) to heat...
• Stay-stitch at 1/2 in the curve and maybe slit notches before pinning and sewing the princess seam (or use the magic curve foot!) 
• I am quite symmetric, so I could avoid sewing the seams outside next time I try to fit garment!?
• If I mark carefully the alterations, I should skip the basting and fitting steps for the next dresses using this same pattern...

I could buy :

• pinking shears or rotary cutter blade to finish seams (or use the mounting technique - i.e. partial lining)
• Get a clean and non leaking iron! 
• Get the Curve Master 5/8 pressure foot - would be handy for my son's quilt projects (lots of curves planned!) and clothing!

TIME : 4.5 h
Saturday April 14, 2.5h, steps 1 to 10.
Sunday April 15, 2h, steps 10 to 17.
Update Blog : 0.5 h